The Space Between in the Florida Keys

Shopping in Old Town, kayaking the mangroves, and leaving room for the day to unfold The first thing I loved about our week in the Keys was the space between the things we did. We had ideas. We knew there were shops to explore, places to eat, and water to get out on. But most mornings began with sitting around, enjoying the slow pace, and eventually asking what everyone felt like doing. Sometimes the answer depended on whether we were hungry. Sometimes it depended on what we were making for dinner. Did we need groceries? How long would dinner take to cook? Should we save room for something delicious later? These were perfectly satisfactory matters around which to arrange a day. We had exchanged our usual responsibilities for the question of whether lunch might interfere with dinner. An excellent trade. Our one fixed appointment was Tuesday’s anniversary sail. Around it, the week had room to breathe. A starfish clip on Petronia Street One shopping wander took us to Petronia Street in Ba...

The Quiet Side of Key West

Finding beauty in the small things, and remembering how to do nothing.

Key West has a reputation.

Bright colors. Crowded bars. Roosters with absolutely no regard for the hour. Music spilling into the streets, frozen cocktails, and a general understanding that good behavior is somewhat optional.

And there is certainly a place for all of that.

But somewhere beneath the noise, the color, and the cheerful commotion is another Key West. A quieter one. A place of salt air, shifting light, weathered wood, and small, beautiful things that ask for very little attention.

That was the Key West I went looking for.

Vacation arrivals

We arrived at our friend’s home in the lower Keys to find ourselves surrounded by palms, water, and the sort of beautiful stillness that immediately makes you think you should feel relaxed.

But everyone understands when I say, should is the operative word.

Arriving on vacation and actually being on vacation are two different things.

Before leaving home, we spend days, no, weeks, making arrangements to disappear for a little while. Work needs to be squared away, assigned to others while you’re gone. The house needs cleaning and organizing. Clothes need ironing and bags need to be packed. Every little responsibility must be tucked neatly away so we can enjoy the luxury of having absolutely nothing to do.

Which, when you think about it, is an extraordinary amount of work to do, in order to do nothing.

Anxiety builds, and then we arrive.

The scenery has changed, but our minds haven't yet caught up.

Over conversations with our traveling companions during the week, we discovered that nearly everyone felt the same way. It takes time to settle into a vacation. Sometimes days.

I wondered why.

We’re so accustomed to filling our hours that an empty afternoon feels unfamiliar. Maybe relaxation isn’t about having nothing to do. It’s convincing ourselves to believe finally there's nothing we need to do.

And if you find yourself in the Keys, hopefully somewhere along the way, something in you changes.

I hope you find yourself sitting a little longer. Looking at the water without checking the time. I hope someone catches you smiling for no particular reason.

Because that, is when the vacation really begins.

The things we almost miss

In the Keys, you may see blue crabs moving across the pale sand, palm fronds rustling overhead, and water that seems to change color with every passing hour.

These are small things. Nothing particularly monumental.

And yet I found them endlessly interesting.

There is something wonderful about watching a little crab go about his business as though he owns the shoreline. Or noticing the peculiar shape of a stone. Or the intricate patterns sunlight makes as it moves across shallow water.

None of these things would appear on a list of Key West's top ten attractions.

They don't require reservations, comfortable walking shoes, or a credit card.

They simply exist, whether we notice them or not.

I think this is one of the loveliest gifts of being somewhere unfamiliar. We begin paying attention again.

At home, we can walk past the same beautiful things every day without giving them a second glance. Our surroundings become so familiar that we stop seeing them.

But somewhere new, even a weathered doorway or a cluster of tropical leaves becomes interesting.

We remember what it feels like to be curious.

A different sort of luxury

We were fortunate to stay in a magnificent home on the water, beautifully appointed and surrounded by an extraordinary view.

There was no shortage of luxury.

But what I found myself appreciating most often wasn't necessarily anything inside the house.

It was the breeze.

The sound of water moving along the shoreline.

The changing light in the morning.

Watching pelicans dive for fish.

The chance to sit quietly, with a cup of coffee, and watch the day begin without needing to hurry it along.

It's a curious thing, isn't it? We can surround ourselves with every imaginable comfort and still discover that what feels most luxurious is time.

Time without an agenda. Time to enjoy a conversation that wanders from one subject to another. Time to notice that the afternoon light has softened and the palms have begun casting long shadows.

Time that doesn't need to produce anything.

The last light

And then there were the sunsets.

Key West certainly knows how to make an occasion of the end of the day. People gather, cameras are raised, boats drift toward the horizon, and everyone turns to watch the sun make its departure.

But I’m not interested in the spectacle.

I’m most interested in the quiet that follows.

That moment when the last light slips away and, for just a little while, nobody seems quite ready to speak.

The sky continues changing. The water holds a few remaining sparkles of light. The day, with everything it contained, colorfully and serenely comes to an end.

At this moment I feel deep gratitude.

But there is no grand lesson to learn here or need to make the moment mean more than it is.

Just gratitude for having the privilege of been there to see it.

Bringing the quiet home

Sadly, vacations end.

The suitcases get unpacked and the laundry gets done. Our calendars fill again, and all the familiar responsibilities of everyday life rush back in.

I know that ordinary life cannot feel like an afternoon in the Keys.

But I wonder whether we can bring a little of that attentiveness home with us.

For me, it may look like sitting outside with my morning coffee instead of carrying it directly to my home office. Maybe it’s taking a different route on our evening walk. Definitely, it’s noticing the late-afternoon sun through our window as it falls across the kitchen table.

We should also allow ourselves a quiet moment without immediately deciding how it ought to be used.

I came to the Keys expecting beautiful water, warm sunshine, wonderful food, and time with people we love.

But I also found myself remembering this. Beauty doesn't always announce itself. Sometimes we must be still enough to notice.

And that, wherever we happen to be, is something worth bringing to the table.

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